Rome: between eternity, chaos and beauty

Photography: Kerr McIlraith

Rome is not a city for beginners.

Anyone you ask will tell you as much, but it feels quite different when you arrive for the first time. As I did. Somehow, after all these years, I can finally say I’ve been to the Eternal City. Italy has always been my preferred destination, sorry, France. Italians know how to create an atmosphere that puts you at ease. Rome itself is irretrievably romantic. Let’s leave the rather predictable Emily in Paris perspective aside and think instead of Roman Holiday, La Dolce Vita and all those dramas in and around the papacy.

My first proper impression of the city’s heart came over a quiet dinner at Osteria dei Pontifici. Judging by the American visitors, it was partly geared towards tourists, but the atmosphere was excellent. A red room in the corner caught my eye. The people inside looked so mysterious that I imagined it might be reserved for Vatican officials. Who knows? It was a useful reminder

that within Rome (in Bulgarian), the Vatican is a world of its own.

On the way back to the hotel, I walked around it. Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to do the same. It was more of a walk than I’d expected.

The next day began gently, with the Spanish Steps and the boutiques nearby. On the approach, a beautiful, old-fashioned shop window with a gold frame stopped me in my tracks. I peered inside and found a family tailoring and menswear business called Old Bond Street. Marcello and his lovely wife Maria told me its story stretched back to 1954.

Sadly, when I visited, they were preparing to close for good within days.

They showed me around and explained that the name came from a trip to London. Maria had bought a beautiful bracelet at a jeweller’s near Bond Street. I left with a cashmere waistcoat, a tie and a hug from the couple, my heart full. No luxury label or tourist boutique could compete with that memory of Rome and its wonderful people. If you’re after classic loafers or velvet slippers, though, nearby Laudadio is worth a look.

After a short walk, and “short” is a relative term in Rome, stop for a well-earned espresso and a quick bite at Ciampini. If vintage jewellery is your thing, make time for Carlo Eleuteri. I’ll return to vintage fashion later, because it exceeded every expectation. Hello, dream Jil Sander skirt. Even without buying a Bulgari ring or a Tiffany necklace,

you can watch the art of collecting unfold

as an elegant customer and a sales assistant consider the rarest, most exquisite pieces. Next came the Colosseum, though I was even more excited about the Roman Forum and its extraordinary scale. My own route began at the Forum and continued towards the Colosseum. Check timed-entry arrangements when planning yours.

Speaking of crowds, the Vatican requires a particular kind of stamina: the Sistine Chapel, St Peter’s Basilica and square, and the Vatican Museums. In the basilica, I went looking for the place dedicated to Saints Cyril and Methodius. It felt important to find that small connection within such a vast space.

Then, of course, there is Michelangelo’s Pietà. A masterpiece.

To pay your respects to Pope Francis, visit Santa Maria Maggiore, a basilica he loved during his lifetime. To me, it reflects something of his grounded character. I have to admit that I didn’t feel anything divine in St Peter’s. It seemed so far removed from earthly life: magnificent but cold, almost artificial, even a little intimidating. That was my response, rather than a judgement on anyone else’s experience.

After a long day of queues, Est! Est! Est! made a relaxed lunch stop. The anchovy-stuffed courgette flowers were a highlight, as was much of the menu. Back to vintage shopping: I came across Mercatino by chance. It was the closest thing to an estate sale I’d seen,

with seemingly endless rails of clothes, antique furnishings and treasures of every kind.

A proper find. Walk around Monti and more discoveries keep appearing. My favourite stop, though, was Humana, especially for the prices and labels I found on that visit. For interesting jewellery, try Cotton Club near the Pantheon.

Finally, if you’re still craving the pleasures of an Italian pastry shop on your way towards the Roman Forum, take a detour to Il Dagnino and pick up a Sicilian cassatina.

Rome is not for the faint-hearted.

It is intense, loud, invigorating, dizzying and all-consuming. It is also generous, warm and welcoming. A city of contradictions and carefully held balances, it keeps ancient beauty, modern life and the future in the same frame. Perhaps that coexistence is what makes Rome feel so eternal.

La dolce vita: the Italian essentials we love
(in Bulgarian)
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